Fetish pour Homme - on one hand, undoubtedly a reliable companion. On the other hand, it does show twists and surprises, although it operates within a manageable framework.
A cloud of sour-rough, campfire-smoky leather opens. Aha, the base rings through immediately. Indeed: Elemi, leather, pink pepper. Foamy-scratchy notes of oakmoss and patchouli allow the tastefully subtle astringent citrus fruit (the manufacturer explicitly highlights lime) to barely make its presence known.
My first surprise: On the third testing day, the smokiness of the opening lasts relatively long. Close to the smokehouse, of course, just narrowly avoiding the ham.
Continuing on. An idea of minty freshness, very noble and elegant. After five minutes, primarily spices. Black pepper, aromatic and voluminous, almost smoky. Cinnamon is acceptable, moderate, with gentle, supporting sweetness. I can imagine a contribution from coriander sourness (more pronounced in the ground version), which transitions the citrus notes into the development. Cardamom fits well after half an hour and remains an important player.
And suddenly I find myself (second surprise) back in the 80s. Although I missed out on significant fragrance experiences back then, I have tested some of the relevant heavyweights in recent years. The now austere, multi-note, robustly spiced-herb-green appearance surprisingly reminds me of that style. Only, this comes across far less overpowering than what the old veterans often offer, with which I reliably have certain difficulties. With Fetish pour Homme, however, despite the abundance of aromas, I can clearly discern various individual components in almost glassy transparency. And yet, the fragrance does not unravel. It has character, and I feel extremely noble, yet characterfully scented. Moreover, Fetish exudes a subtle masculinity that is appropriate even for a thin, bespectacled business economist like me.
Already during the first hour, it becomes clear what the purely quantitative pyramidal distribution of the notes already suggests: This fragrance is essentially a single base note. The supposed heart note plays hardly any role for me. At most, I would want to highlight a leathery violet. The verdict from my favorite colleague after an hour was clear and concise: leather. In projection, it appears to be dominant early on. Personally, I also insert a slight eugenol intermezzo after two hours, which may involve spicy clove. Cinnamon alone does not seem sufficient to me.
By lunchtime, the piercing impression, however, takes a turn. Sweet throat pastille leather takes over the reign, underpinned not only by foamy oakmoss, but rather a whole host of subjects forms a carpet of foundational warmth. A trace of gentle, ambery-creamy sweetness. Some accents from the sweet-resinous corner - benzoin, but primarily minimally dirty labdanum; I even contemplate opoponax. As a counterbalance, some wood resonates alongside, and I occasionally sense echoes of the sour leather direction, as represented by fragrances like Epic Man.
The new motto is undoubtedly 'Volume'. The glassy transparency is history, now creamy-connectedness is in vogue. This thoroughly transforms the character of the fragrance.
And alongside, that ultimately indefinable 80s twist always wafts. Perhaps that is what makes Fetish pour Homme special - the combination of the 80s vibe with a predominantly sweet-creamy leather note. In my few hundred tested fragrances, I have not encountered anything like this so far. Later in the afternoon, I would even attribute it a hint of barbershop attitude. A classic clean impression, a touch of aftershave. Original. Yet, consistently, our sweet-creamy throat pastille leather note takes the forefront, nearly brushing against the sweet licorice.
With Fetish pour Homme, no one ever goes wrong, and I like it very much. Is it too expensive for that? Any answer remains necessarily subjective. Everyone is right, of course. I simply avoid a public stance and limit myself to two rather general observations:
1. People who value exclusivity and quality but do not wish or cannot delve deeper into this, our matter, may be tempted to suppress their need for high-quality through price, hoping it will guarantee what they desire. Fetish pour Homme meets such expectations unreservedly.
2. Fetish pour Homme shows no signs of "fragrance fatigue" throughout its entire duration, which would be inappropriate at the present price level - at least there should be agreement on that.
I thank 0815abc for the sample.
PS: Yes, I actually tested the EdP.