In recent months, I have increasingly ventured into the world of ouds. Far from being an expert, I have at least been able to approach the topic somewhat. No fragrance genre had directly appealed to me as a newcomer two and a half years ago. However, the diverse attributes of the dark scent trails, the creativity of nature, and the adventurous production of the raw material contributed to my initially cautious fascination.
I consciously want to limit my collection to a maximum of 20, better yet 15 bottles. This way, I keep track and don’t have to mentally bury fragrances too often, as everyday life looms just around the corner. Nevertheless, I want to cover the widest possible range within my taste. This naturally means that fragrances must truly impress to earn a place in my collection.
Now, I wanted to find an oud fragrance for myself. The first question arises: What does oud smell like? I have at least roughly answered this with mini samples of an oud oil and some attars (according to my research, the scent range is very broad, ranging from fruity-green to fecal-brown). The result: Just because something is precious doesn’t mean I have to wear it in its pure form. Too primal, too much steam under the hood, too far from a perfume I want to wear in public. But: Learned something again.
So what do I expect from my oud perfume? What are the parameters?
- Strong oud focus without much embellishment (e.g., rose)
- Authentic impression, powerful, deep, black, very distinctive, without being too animalistic
- Little sweetness
- Must stand out but also work in a restaurant with non-fragrance freaks
- Urban-elegant - should not evoke images of horse stables (taste is subjective)
Very animalistic oud fragrances like Oud Luwak bubble in my perception. I sense a restless movement when smelling. This is not what I want my oud fragrance to evoke. Much more, it should carry the dynamics compressed within, hinting at its nature, but hiding it much deeper.
In my collection, Black Afgano comes closest to this. However, the focus here is on the dark resins, the slightly herbal smoke, which is surrounded by a liqueur-like sweetness (see scent comment). The only one that has been really close to the ideal so far is Oud Imperial from Perris Monte Carlo in the extrait version. It appears very authentic and powerful, but I don’t see the "urban-elegant" aspect fully realized. A bit too much incense stick attitude. At least for me.
The best scent discoveries usually come to me through a supplier named coincidence. The beautiful often comes when you let go. So it was here as well. A small bonus from a fragrance order, strong enough for one drop, just enough to roughly capture the scent character. And then also from Roja Dove. In my comment on the Elysium Cologne (which I own and like very much), I have already critically addressed the desired luxury attitude of the brand. Not out of envy - I am happy for anyone who is professionally successful and doesn’t have to worry about money. The creator (if he really is, given the multitude of new releases) also seems sympathetic and quite charismatic in interviews. But because I believe that luxury should speak for itself. I better not start on the prices. But I evaluate fragrances. And the scent can’t help it. You don’t choose your family. At least that’s what I’ve heard.
I had to sniff the quickly emptied sample so many times that I eventually gave up: It's fine, fragrance god, I’ve understood. Ultimately, I took the plunge and ordered a 7.5ml atomizer directly from Roja.
And I must say: This comes very, very close to my ideal vision of what unfolds before me!
The first 30 minutes can be off-putting, that should be clear. That I, as a patchouli refuser, am so enthusiastic is almost a miracle. For this grabs the oud and makes it its partner in crime, transforming it into its Clyde. The patchouli-oud combo is rapidly making its way into memory. With breathtaking speed and pointed concentration. Here it’s about the essentials. But following the motto: Reduce to the max. Nothing jabs, everything is soft and cuddly within the realm of depth and darkness. However, with a larger dosage, the patchouli can initially seem a bit harsh. Not in the sense of synthetic sharpness; it feels soft despite its impact. But in the sense of a brief overdosage. That settles down - the partners become equal over time.
The floral notes that are often used in Roja’s creations are hardly noticeable to me. This plays very much in my favor. It’s modern and oriental here, but in a way that is pleasant for a western nose like mine. To be completely honest: I smell only patchouli, oud, and a bit of oregano. I have to pass on cypriol and gurjun balsam - I haven’t smelled them alone yet. Occasionally, benzoin adds warmth.
I don’t perceive an extremely strong scent development after the 30 minutes - but I don’t have that expectation either. After the rapid start, everything calms down a bit, becoming quieter and more relaxed. The fragrance gains a dryness, and a very pleasant, subtle sweetness comes into play. The longevity is very good, and the scent is very present.
H - The Exclusive Aoud strikes me as very stylish, strongly masculine, self-assured, and brilliantly meets the urban-elegant attribute. It’s not a true solo oud fragrance, but the patchouli blends so pleasantly with the oud and brings a certain earthiness that indeed fits the nature of agarwood resin, creating a very authentic oud impression. This fragrance is a statement and should be worn with confidence. Despite its high masculinity and complete absence of freshness, the scent has been well received among the non-fragrance freak faction so far. Which makes me very happy. So I must say that my parameters mentioned above have been met at least 90%. That’s why I gladly give this score.
I don’t read much about this fragrance online. Even here on Parfumo, there is hardly any talk about H - The Exclusive Aoud. Unjustly, in my opinion. This is truly a fragrance that needs to be left on the skin for a longer period. But it’s also nice to unexpectedly discover such a gem.
My flight into the oud world is certainly not over yet. I will be surprised many more times, and I look forward to that. But I am very satisfied with this one and recommend it to anyone who resonates with my initial words and wants to explore the depths of oud. A bottle could become a reality for me in the long term. I guess I will have to warm up to the Swarovski crystals.
Top Notes 
Bergamot
Oregano
Heart Notes 
Geranium
Grasse jasmine
May rose
Base Notes 
Oud
Patchouli
Cypriol
Birch
Gurjum balsam
Nutmeg
Valerian
Labdanum
Vetiver
Benzoin
BertolucciK
MrLimuzin
Topfpflanze3
Youssefoud10
Davediomede
Yatagan
Kankuro
Tabla
FlinkPoyd
MartyMcFly
