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7.5 / 10 16 Ratings
A popular perfume by Ermenegildo Zegna for men, released in 2021. The scent is smoky-woody. It was last marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.
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Main accords

Smoky
Woody
Resinous
Spicy
Sweet

Fragrance Notes

Limbanol®Limbanol® Black pepperBlack pepper Elemi resinElemi resin SaffronSaffron CarbonCarbon GraphiteGraphite

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.516 Ratings
Longevity
7.414 Ratings
Sillage
6.914 Ratings
Bottle
7.617 Ratings
Submitted by OPomone, last update on 06/01/2025.
Interesting Facts
The fragrance was part of the collection XXX Collection.

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Reviews

1 in-depth fragrance description
Splitter

123 Reviews
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Splitter
Splitter
3  
Room Fragrance or Perfume - The Transition is Fluid
When I discovered this scent, I was very curious. Smoky fragrances are my specialty anyway, and even though I was disappointed and forewarned after "Ébène Fumé | Tom Ford" and some other creations that I believe were incorrectly categorized as smoky scents, I almost snagged this bottle anew. Luckily, I didn't do that. But since I still wanted to own the bottle and was fortunate enough to get all three in a bundle from a sharing as a leftover bottle, I chose this route.

I won't even attempt to pronounce the brand name, and unfortunately, I must say upfront: none of the three from the XXX series convinced me.
Charcoal, definitely - which is currently classified as smoky-spicy - at least has two facets, three if you include the bottle. And I want to start with that, as it is the part that leaves me particularly indecisive. Sure, the bottle looks extravagant and special with its one melted edge. It's just a pity that all three have exactly the same shape, which makes it look somewhat less dynamic. Furthermore, the bottle is almost opaque. Almost, because light shining from the front causes it to reflect, but if the light source is from the back or below, the glass is semi-transparent. At least you can see how much is left in the bottle.

Now, let's talk about the content. The supposedly smoky content. The two additional facets. And yes, in the first few minutes or even very subtly, this composition is smoky. It hits quite hard, as if a piece of charred wood had been mixed in. But even that is only subtle. The saffron has a slightly supportive effect here, although it also drifts more towards the woody-spicy. Overall, Charcoal settles after about ten minutes and from then on only gets weaker. The cool character of the coal-inspired scent doesn't make it easier to perceive it as smoky, as it is not a cold smoke that is being conveyed here, but incense at the start and dry wood with a cold, fresh, presumably nocturnal oriental note for the rest of the time. This is not a short duration, as the scent does last for about eight hours. Although over time it becomes very close to the skin and has a certain synthetic quality that increasingly comes to the forefront and doesn't improve the overall picture for me.
Always present: saffron.
It emphasizes the dryness, the oriental spice, the woody, coal-like character.

And I want to put it this way: As a room fragrance, it would be fantastic. As a perfume, it is not tangible for me. There are days when it is quite alright, but do I want to have this unintentional synthetic quality on me all day? So far, I haven't been able to answer that question with a yes, and the contents of the bottle are nearing their end. And even when I try to incorporate it into the cold, harsh theme of God of War, it feels inappropriate.

Thus, its place in my collection is also inappropriate.
1 Comment

Statements

6 short views on the fragrance
8
3
Fortunately, it doesn't smell like charcoal. Moderately smoky, nicely peppery-spicy & resinous. Saffron works in the background. It's got something.
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3 Comments
4
Beautiful, spicy-cool scent, light licorice-anise notes, slightly sweet, very successful men's fragrance, H/S rather average, but okay.
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2
Elemiharz and saffron come together in a gentle, moderately smoky, and quite dark composition.
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1
1
Anise-spicy, okay for daily use, not a date scent. Unfortunately, not enough pepper for me. H/S is okay, but not a beast. Can be worn sometimes.
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1 Comment
Reminds me of a Sunday church service.
A very pleasant incense scent like "Full Incense | Montale," just a bit darker.
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0 Comments
A spicy, gently oriental composition with a synthetic-fresh base that feels burnt and smoky. Not a revolution.
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