Essenza di Zegna Ermenegildo Zegna 2003 Eau de Toilette

Essenza di Zegna perfectly shows what I would personally expect from a contemporary citrus-woody niche scent. I think of “niche” because it smells... different: it’s classy, cozy and versatile, but has just the right “twist” to smell creative and peculiar. Basically I would define Essenza a woody-exotic and slightly aquatic scent, with a cardamon-fruity twist and a thick, slightly damp musky base; it reminds me quite much of Fendi Theorema for Men, but smelling way more quality – deeper, thicker, smokier, more natural, far more refined. Say, something halfway Declaration and Theorema. With that myrtle accord which adds a touch of “Mediterranean exotism”, with its peculiar sort of leafy, musky, kind of “olive tree” flavour. Essenza smells so well blended it’s kind of hard to describe it, but I feel that “tremendous quality woody-exotic-spicy-aquatic fragrance” can sum this up quite well. Just a tad too much linear for me, but highly creative and elegant.

7,5-8/10

Now I am testing an original manufacturer sample from a collection liquidation of Essenza di Zegna Eau de Toilette. Unfortunately, the scent hasn't really captivated me. The longevity is quite good at around 6-7 hours. I find the sillage to be somewhat weaker.

In the top note, I don't detect many citrus aromas, but rather a lot of watermelon. The heart note is very herbal, spicy, and green thanks to myrtle and cardamom. Therefore, I also recognize some sage and eucalyptus. Mastic resin adds pine needles to the fragrance. The base remains on the more herbal and green side for me. A certain soapiness can also be discerned.

In the end, the fragrance unfortunately doesn't "catch" me. I find it masculine but rather "old-fashioned". It's set, but for me, not worth regretting...sorry!

Dear Igraine, thank you very much for this generous sample, but unfortunately, this Zegna and I do not get along at all.

Although I like classic fragrances, I must say that the essence of Mr. Zegna develops in a completely outdated way on me.

The top note is an unmotivated citrus freshness that leaves not even a hint of an impression.

The heart note is herbal-spicy and has a piercing soapiness. The myrtle does not come through well on my skin, as it is overshadowed by the cardamom.

In the base, only a trivial and above all soapy musk note remains.

I do not want to say that this fragrance was poorly made. I am simply not the right type for this composition.

This fragrance is like the fashion of this brand. For my taste, just a touch too conservative.

I was really positively surprised in my small mainstream perfumery when the nice Italian salesman sprayed the scent on me (I was once again sniffing around in the men's section :) What a perfectly balanced aromatic woody citrus scent.. it reminds me both of Mandragore Pourpre (intense deep-fresh myrtle note) and Issey Miyake Homme (woody fine citrus). I'm taking it with me to the sea next week! Great discovery and truly "underrated" :)