02/01/2021
3lbows
51 Reviews
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3lbows
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10
On the ambivalence of the carrot and the hospital entrance
From Coca-Cola to flowery-fresh, from powdery-soapy to carroty-herbaceous, from sweet to "sweet-is-nothing-at-all!", from less serious to the well-shaven gentleman, from eeeeewend durable to tender, gentle and fleeting, from masculine to old-fashioned feminine, from the hospital entrance to the wooden terrace by the sea - man, man, man there is really something for everyone. If you scroll through the commis and statements on Ermenegildo's Acqua di Iris, you wonder if they all had the same odeur under the olfactory bulb. But these descriptions certainly make you curious - and prove once again that our subjective impressions can drift apart like continental plates.
Therefore, I had to take a closer look at the thing, where I'm on powdery iris explosions and still looking for something summery, which does not constantly sting my eyes, but is still perceptible even under the mouth-nose protection.
The fragrance opens with a strong cloud of iris powder, which, as is also so common with its peers, quickly fades and passes into a floral, but woody grounded top note. Such a prelude can be found, for example, in Dior's Homme Eau for Men (here refreshed with citrus), Prada's L'Homme (paired with a hefty helping of Lux soap), or Givenchy's Gentleman (EdP and cologne). Dior's Homme Intense and Valentino Uomo also start like this, but clearly sweetened, which results in the so often cited "lipstick accord", the slightly old-fashioned but since DHI not only with metrosexual hipsters again salonfähigen smell from grandma's handbag.
Acqua di Iris starts conservatively tart, at times almost supercool but powerful and masculine - for me, the least unisex iteration of iris in a fragrance to date; woods and musk catch the scent already from the late top note and ground it warmly-earthy towards the base. I definitely associate leather here, though there shouldn't be any in there. At the same time, I detect nutmeg (shouldn't be in there either), which gives it a soft, spicy-nutty aspect. I can therefore understand that the fragrance tends towards sweetness for some, especially since labdanum and iris know how to play up quite sweet and soft. In its sum, and especially in comparison with really sweet fragrances, I find Acqua di Iris, as I said, rather tart. It is not really fresh, or rather refreshing, like Parda's L'Homme L'Eau or Givenchy's Gentleman Cologne, but still not too heavy not to be worn in summer. Acqua is a universal fragrance, not only in terms of the seasons. A good record collection, or in other words a few years should have its carrier, however, already on the hump.
Of the aforementioned iris scents from the designer mainstream, Zegna's Dior Eau for Men comes closest. Zegna's Acqua pleases me but still a tad better, because with the Dior on particularly hot days, I can not help the image of a business mid-forties in a light blue corporate jacket with greasy, half-long hair but neatly groomed full beard. I can identify much better with the calm, unagitated aura of the Zegna fragrance. Thanks to our esteemed fellow parfumos Fresh21 I may now enjoy this little water for just under 100ml.
Therefore, I had to take a closer look at the thing, where I'm on powdery iris explosions and still looking for something summery, which does not constantly sting my eyes, but is still perceptible even under the mouth-nose protection.
The fragrance opens with a strong cloud of iris powder, which, as is also so common with its peers, quickly fades and passes into a floral, but woody grounded top note. Such a prelude can be found, for example, in Dior's Homme Eau for Men (here refreshed with citrus), Prada's L'Homme (paired with a hefty helping of Lux soap), or Givenchy's Gentleman (EdP and cologne). Dior's Homme Intense and Valentino Uomo also start like this, but clearly sweetened, which results in the so often cited "lipstick accord", the slightly old-fashioned but since DHI not only with metrosexual hipsters again salonfähigen smell from grandma's handbag.
Acqua di Iris starts conservatively tart, at times almost supercool but powerful and masculine - for me, the least unisex iteration of iris in a fragrance to date; woods and musk catch the scent already from the late top note and ground it warmly-earthy towards the base. I definitely associate leather here, though there shouldn't be any in there. At the same time, I detect nutmeg (shouldn't be in there either), which gives it a soft, spicy-nutty aspect. I can therefore understand that the fragrance tends towards sweetness for some, especially since labdanum and iris know how to play up quite sweet and soft. In its sum, and especially in comparison with really sweet fragrances, I find Acqua di Iris, as I said, rather tart. It is not really fresh, or rather refreshing, like Parda's L'Homme L'Eau or Givenchy's Gentleman Cologne, but still not too heavy not to be worn in summer. Acqua is a universal fragrance, not only in terms of the seasons. A good record collection, or in other words a few years should have its carrier, however, already on the hump.
Of the aforementioned iris scents from the designer mainstream, Zegna's Dior Eau for Men comes closest. Zegna's Acqua pleases me but still a tad better, because with the Dior on particularly hot days, I can not help the image of a business mid-forties in a light blue corporate jacket with greasy, half-long hair but neatly groomed full beard. I can identify much better with the calm, unagitated aura of the Zegna fragrance. Thanks to our esteemed fellow parfumos Fresh21 I may now enjoy this little water for just under 100ml.
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