Fleur Narcotique Ex Nihilo 2013 Eau de Parfum

Stunning fragrance. The notes blend effortlessly with each other. After the initial spray onto the skin you detect the floral notes quite clearly however after a few moments these subside a little to blend perfectly with the fruity notes, not sweet they just enhance the overall composition.

The heart notes blend perfectly with the base notes after a fairly short time leaving you with the most fantastic floral/fruit fragrance throughout, not too weak not to strong Just the most perfect sophisticated scent that can easily be worn by both sexes anytime and for almost any occasion.

Definitely a winner from Ex Nihilo. I would highly recommend anyone giving this a try. Recently purchased a 100ml bottle, it's addictive!

My hopes for Fleur Narcotique weren't especially high because I had already tried Attar Collection Azora and PdM Valaya before, which are both often considered similar to Fleur Narcotique, and both didn't impress me.
But in this case I think the original version is superior and I'm very glad I finally tried it!

First of all, let's address the main criticism this scent gets: Yes, it definitely comes across as synthetic. It's a very clean and modern scent, and it doesn't smell like realistically like any flower that exists in nature. If you want natural, this isn't the right perfume for you. But if you like more abstract florals and fragrances that make you feel freshly showered all day, this is it.
It's radiant and even a bit bracing, but not scratchy or harsh.

The opening is quite fruity with the peach and citruses for a moment, and I honestly think it would be even better if the sweetness would be toned down by 10-20%, but that's nitpicky, as the scent turns more floral quickly anyways. It's very sparkling, like a soda. Imagine opening a bottle of ice-cold sprite on a hot day, but most of the sugar is replaced with a floral aroma. Peony and orange blossom are equally noticeable, blended with laundry musks, fizzy fruits and a hint of creamy jasmine. It's just so clean and pretty and it stays that way for many hours.

To me this is purely a scent for the warmer seasons. It has a coldness that wouldn't work for me in winter, when I usually crave gourmands and ambery scents. But Fleur Narcotique is not the average summer freshie, it's way more intense and attention-grabbing than that. I like it very much. If I find a cheaper alternative or something that is a bit more rounded out for the first 30 minutes, I'll get that, otherwise I might add this to my wish list.

For the two fragrances I mentioned in the first paragraph, Valaya is much harsher and more peppery, while Azora is pretty close to Fleur Narcotique, but with a warm fruity undertone that I don't love, and maybe a little less fine-tuned.

Fleur Narcotique is fine. It's wearable, but that's about it. It's lacking something to elevate it into the "really good perfume" category while managing to also cause a bit of a traffic jam to my nose, like too many elements are trying to exist in the same space. This feels crowded rather than layered. Valaya does a clean-floral perfume better and has lift and movement that allows it to open and transform throughout its wear.

I love perfumes that have a diffusive, halo-like sillage, which is why it's disappointing that Fleur Narcotique feels applied to the skin like paint rather than radiating from it. The sweetness is flat and stays that way. Being linear is not a bad thing, but this perfume just disappoints as you wait for it to grow, change, or balance itself into something more enjoyable. I think the moss note dulls everything under a layer of dehydrated dustiness when the top notes want to be juicy-fresh. The orange blossom and jasmine compete instead of compliment, so neither of them win. Valaya is intoxicating as it dries down and becomes the party itself, but Fleur Narcotique just sits on the sidelines, composed and pleasant, never alive enough to join the party.

This fragrance is a highly synthetic sterile fragrance. White colors come to mind in my mind. The fragrance smells like bar soap made from old white rose. Yes it literally smells like soap.

It is a very herbal fragrance. Definitely not a floral scent. It is more reminiscent of chemically sterilized materials. It leaves a very light sugary trace.

It stays on the skin for up to 4 hours. Lasts longer than 8 hours on fabric. The spread rate decreases to less than half a meter after 4 hours. A scent reminiscent of a white rose remains.

It is a unisex fragrance in my opinion. It seems to suit all ages and all seasons.

I'd say this is one of my all time favourite jasmine-centric fragrances. Big statement I know. I've come to learn that there is not really any such thing as gender in perfumery and Fleur Narcotique by Ex-Nihilo is a great example of that in practice.

The opening is succulent peach, lychee and almost creamy bergamot set against a carefree floral heart of heady jasmine, peony, orange blossom and I think some neroli. The focus is on how the citruses work entwined with the florals and the blending is characteristically superb from Ex-Nihilo here. I love how it is fresh, clean and vibrant but never overly sweet. The base is some white musk, some Ambroxin and some pale woods; I think cedar or birch, but not very aromatic. They are here solely to provide some longevity to the main event. The effect is take this slightly powdery, but again not in a cloying or overly feminine way. It doesn't feel over-engineered or synthetic at all but is quite linear in the drydown as the jasmine stays in longer than everything else. It is an extremely well done simple thing done with surprising intricacy.

This is the sort of floral that us guys could and I think should be wearing in a non-ironic way. It is big, powerful, assertive and confident and not subtle, but at the same time refined and attractive. There is something cool and aspirational about that. If you have the confidence to pull something like this off then it will reward you handsomely because it isn't cliched and the projection is gorgeous. I get a decent 6 hours off this which for a fruity floral is incredible, and I understand the Extrait version is even better. I really recommend you try this one on skin because it is a lot more interesting and unisex than the notes may infer on paper.

Layering Suggestion: layering floral-centric fragrances is tough and this one is because it is so well blended. I'd recommend something with more jasmine and perhaps a little osmanthus or tuberose but some deeper woody notes to accentuate what is already here. Marfa by MEMO Paris springs to mind as the florals are white and very strong and robust, whilst the woods are similar in profile but a bit deeper and richer.

Gents Outfit/Watch Suggestion: This is summer in a bottle. I'm thinking a tan, fitted tapered trousers and a crisp brilliant white shirt, your best no sock penny loafers, an IWC Portugueser on a leather strap and tortoiseshell designer Wayfarer style sunglasses.

Three Word Summary: Unisex Fruity Florals

Scent - 8/10
Drydown - 7/10
Sillage - 8/10
Bottle/packaging - 7/10
Performance - 9/10

39/50

Thanks for reading, @thenewnose