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Absolus Allegoria

Patchouli Ardent Guerlain 2020

7.6 / 10 232 Ratings

A popular perfume by Guerlain for women and men, released in 2020. The scent is woody-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by LVMH.
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Main accords

Woody

Spicy

Earthy

Leathery

Oriental

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Black pepper

Green fig

Pink pepper

Heart Notes

Patchouli

Cedar

Turkish rose absolute

Base Notes

Leather

Musk

Perfumer

Thierry Wasser

Ratings

Scent

7.6232 Ratings

Longevity

8.3203 Ratings

Sillage

8.0201 Ratings

Bottle

8.4203 Ratings

Value for money

7.4134 Ratings

Submitted by OPomone · last update on 12/28/2025.

Source-backed & verified

Interesting Facts

The fragrance is part of the Absolus Allegoria collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Thé Noir 29 Eau de Parfum

Ombre Blue

Patchouli Intense

Santal Royal Eau de Parfum

Oud Essentiel

Z Zegna Milan

Reviews

12 in-depth fragrance descriptions

10/27/2024

Razvanyke
215 Reviews

Razvanyke

4

Not your typical patch - THE NEW Bottle

This is not your typical earthy patchouli, if you expect Coromandel, don´t because it starts with a strong rose, then evolves. My favorite ever patchouli scents are of course from Chanel, then followed by L´Instant de Guerlain pour Homme .. or Tempo from Dyptique, which are equally good.

Here you have a strong oriental start, almost Oud Rose .. with sweet Fig and spices, all of them.
The strong pepper smell with rose can put some people off, especially if you think it is a typical wet soil patch.

The longevity is out of this world, this scent will last forever and it´s the new bottle, so not reformulated or toned down at all.

It has a beautiful development, it develops into a smoky, woody & complex scent, like an aura of French sophistication.

I like these new bottles more vs the previous ones with a ribbon and I am impressed that Guerlain has not watered down this scent.

12/30/2024

9.5Scent 9Longevity 9Sillage

Sparrinsky
46 Reviews

Sparrinsky

3

The gem of this line

My review is for the Absolus Allegoria reformulation (? - I found conflicting information). I did not know the previous scent.

I got myself a full bottle of this for Christmas after a LOT of hunting for a scent that was within my budget, versatile, unique, well-performing.

I am in love with this fragrance. It is a beast, smells fantastic, and you could pull this scent off in pretty much any situation IF you are careful with spraying as it gets overpowering very quickly.

The guy below me 's video does a great job of explaining this why this is an awesome fragrance that for some reason does not seem to be popular on the internet.

Its opening is so strong and projection for this beast (2-3 ft) lasts for a solid 4-5 hours on my skin, and proceeds to last as a skin scent at least until I go to bed (~12+ depending on activity). I do 3 sprays generally and I worry that I am overpowering people a little since I can smell it myself without sniffing at anything for a long time after application. But I love the smell too much to sissy spray.

The opening is a blast of pepper and other spices, but I do not smell the fig like the notes say. The patchouli and the rose reveal themselves relatively quickly to provide you with a blast of scent, and last for a while, although the patchouli itself is not strong or wet soil smell like other patchouli's I have smelt. The dry down takes a long time to show up - but when it does, it is alluring, predominantly musky, with a dash of leather and some woody base to back it up.

It is challenging to pick up any individual notes, but it is so well blended that the overall impression gives a refined, sensual and continuously addictive scent.

I would say this leans masculine, but I could see the right woman pulling this off.

Don't sleep on this. It is the best of the line and it is the best scent in my admittedly small collection. It's not a daily as it is too powerful, but I damn want it to be.

Price wise - fine at that 150 euro price point I paid, but if you get it on a discount, power to you. Do not blind buy it, it is not for everyone.

Updated on 12/30/2024

12/15/2022

6Scent 9Longevity 8Sillage

JinBaba
33 Reviews

JinBaba

2

Beautiful and Earthy

Too strong for me, dark intense musky, rosy, oriental with sweat touch. Not for every occasion and not for closed area. More masculine in my opinion and last almost 24h with low-medium projection. I've got 5-7 hour strong projection with few 2-3 spray.

Opening: 8/10
Scent: 7.5/10
Projection: 8/10
Sillage: 8/10
Longevity: 9/10
Price: 9/10
performance: 9/10
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Follow me on Insta: @ScentWords

Updated on 08/13/2023

01/31/2021

9Scent 7Longevity 8Sillage

Wayofscent
62 Reviews

Wayofscent

2

Guerlain did it again!

Patchouli Ardent is one wonderful concotion of patchouli, rose, leather and musks and also different take on patchouli named fragrance.

Let me tell you that patchouli here is maybe the third or fourth note I smell. Opening is nuclear, jammy rose, a lot of fig, peppery leather and later on finally patchouli with cedar and musks. For me, it's pretty linear fragrance and I dig that in this particular case!

Longevity is around 6 hours on my skin with sillage dropping noticeably with every 2 hours so basically last hour you're left with a nice skin scent!

Sillage is powerful for the first two hours, you can easily fill up a room with just two sprays so be careful. Definitely unisex! I would also recommend this one for fig, rose and leather lovers!

04/17/2020

7.5Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

Yatagan
416 Reviews

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Yatagan

Top Review 59

Guerlain and the Spirit of the Times

Uncommented Fragrances No. 148

Guerlain is a traditional brand, no doubt about it! But even traditional brands have at some point launched innovative fragrances: Jicky was the first uncompromising synthetic scent, Mitsouko was the first peach chypre, and Habit Rouge revolutionized the men's market with its oriental aura reminiscent of Shalimar. Many Guerlain fragrances could come to mind.
However, Patchouli Ardent is neither one of the classic Guerlain scents nor an innovative one. It is a reminiscence of the spirit of the times. Is that a bad thing?
To answer this question, one must take a closer look at the fragrance. There is initially an almost dominant pepper note that somewhat resembles incense: spicy, tingling, it almost takes your breath away at first. But it has a rough charm. Especially because there is also a green note that joins in, which I initially couldn't place because I had overlooked the fig in the overview above. In hindsight, this is certainly the reason for the fresh, slightly grassy, unsweet note that is typically found in other fig fragrances. As soon as this accent becomes stronger, the pepper note is already past, and the fragrance quickly approaches the base.
Patchouli is certainly recognizable, but the fact that it had to be the namesake for this fragrance doesn't quite make sense. Somehow, this woody, dark, earthy accent is always present - and that even in the top note, especially on the skin. This combination of an earthy and a green note I actually like quite a lot.
So far, so unusual. So is it innovative after all? Ultimately not, because in the end, a leather note becomes stronger, which has been modeled after the current penetrating synthetic leather notes that have become the plague of men's perfumery since Tuscan Leather. Instead, I prefer the classic leather notes (from Bel Ami, Knize & Co.), which combine warm, amber, resinous, and woody tones with clove and animalistic accents. Nevertheless, the leather note here is never as intrusive as in some new niche fragrances, but rather used in a Guerlain-typical moderate and fragrance-friendly manner. However, if this note were completely absent, I would have pushed myself to a higher rating. So it remains at the above-mentioned rating with a tendency upwards.
One strength of the fragrance is, as described, its development. Unlike many postmodern niche fragrances that show no development at all and hit you with a bang, here we have top, heart, and base notes, even if they are not very pronounced and the fragrance reaches its goal quite quickly.
Not a bad new Guerlain, perhaps even a good one, but also not one that fits into my collection.

Updated on 04/18/2020

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