Today is my first experience with the new version of Iris Noir. The color of the nameplate is a perfect reflection of this perfume. It evokes the deep, regal hue of purple iris flowers, which immediately come to mind upon the first spray. The opening is not the expected buttery, powdery iris but rather a floral, sweet, and invigorating bouquet. Ensar lists peach and raspberry in the top notes, and while the peach doesn’t stand out distinctly to my nose, the ripe, sweet raspberry is unmistakable.
As the fragrance develops, the powdery characteristic of iris becomes more apparent. However, this is not a dry, dusty, or makeup-like powderiness. Instead, it is silk-like, almost liquid or cream-like in texture. Difficult to describe but deeply enjoyable.
The juicy fruitiness of the top notes lingers for about 30 minutes before transitioning to the heart of the fragrance, where other florals take center stage. Ensar lists rose, jasmine, and mimosa as the primary supporting florals, and to my nose, the rose otto stands out most prominently. This rose is rich, red, and jammy, without any green or earthy undertones, which I appreciate as a fan of jammy rose perfumes. There is a slight hint of jasmine’s indolic charm, but it remains subtle.
Let’s talk about the oud. I am still relatively new to oud, especially Ensar’s creations, which I typically associate with aged, smoky, and traditional profiles. However, the oud in Iris Noir is an entirely different experience. Ensar uses Hainan and Nan Trang ouds in this composition, and what I detect is clean, sweet, and slightly citrusy which is a refreshing and modern take. The Hainan oud lends a soft, musky sweetness. Unfortunately I am not experienced with pure nah trang oil to fully understand what it brings to the composition.
Sandalwood is another key component, adding a delicate creaminess and soft woodiness that reinforces the buttery, powdery iris. It blends well with the oud to create a smooth, cohesive base that enhances the overall composition.
Iris Noir is a kaleidoscope of colors throughout its progression. It opens in dark purple with the iris, shifts to vibrant red with the fruity raspberries, and eventually dries down to an orangish-yellow hue, thanks to the creamy, sweet ouds and sandalwood.
If I were to compare Iris Noir to another Ensar perfume, Crime & Punishment comes to mind. This similarity lies primarily in the juicy raspberry top notes and the overall floral focus. However, Iris Noir stands out as a softer, more delicate creation.
Final verdict:
Iris Noir is a delightful surprise and a refreshing departure from the heavy, smoky, oud-forward perfumes I usually gravitate toward from Ensar. It is a soft, powdery floral perfume that feels genderless. The oud adds a necessary depth, keeping the composition intriguing and satisfying my love for oud. Without the oud, this perfume might not resonate with me as strongly. If you’re seeking an easy to wear iris perfume with depth, character, and a hint of clean, resinous oud, Iris Noir is an excellent choice. However, if you prefer animalic, funky, oud-heavy compositions, this one might not meet your expectations.
Peach
Raspberry
Afghan rose otto
Chinese oud
Citrus notes
Honeysuckle
Iris
Jasminum grandiflorum
Melissa
Mimosa
Orange blossom
Pine
Rosemary
Sandalwood
Styrax
Thyme
