Rouge Chaotique Byredo 2023

Can I be honest + vulnerable for a moment? I still have no idea what saffron smells like. I've considered buying a bottle of the spice at Trader Joe's for the sole purpose of ID-ing this note/ingredient, but have yet to commit to the endeavor of it all.

That said, I instead drew an immediate comparison to Maison Crivelli's Lys Solaberg which also has dark plummy notes. Both have an evening, autumnal feel with sweet, dark fruits. If I had to distinguish the two... LS is more purple-colored in my mind, whereas RC seems more burgundy. Am I being swayed by the color of said juice? Maybe so. But it still has a fruitier, red berry kind of feel which I think is in part to the cassis and the sweetness of praline.

Do note the juice is colored and doesn't go clear when you spray it. I have the blotter that's stained pink from the liquid.

This fragrance is undoubtedly well-blended; within the chaos suggested by its name, there is a distinct sense of harmony and originality. It is clearly the result of meticulous craftsmanship.

At first, the initial spray bursts with fruity notes, filling me with high expectations. However, soon after, saffron emerges - a note that, I must admit, I personally do not enjoy. Though it does not overpower the composition, its presence remains persistent.

That said, I cannot deny the originality, the artistry, and the sheer quality of this fragrance. It has a clear purpose, an undeniable character, even if its price is quite prohibitive.

I spray this and it smells wonderful. I already have a 300e bottle in the little perfumed bag the curly-haired smiley lady just handed me and I'm thinking "ahh s** not this again of the loving something right before I go out the store". Then I remember these guys aren't Matière Première and this thing actually evolves, sometimes dramatically. And evolves is does. After the initial sweet red burst, saffron (yeah saffron is red but not the same red. Saffron reminds me of tajines. I love eating them, but I wipe and wash when I get some on my shirt. It's messy business, no shame here. But it's not something I want on me.)

24 hours later (yes, 24), what remained is a wonderful, warming and comforting floral, sorta jammy red scent reminiscent, in its weirdest form, of Lattafa's Opulent Oud. The chaos organised itself perfectly. It's like... Bangkok. Tokyo, or Casablanca. You don't understand crap when you land. And after 10 days, your brain arranges the chaos's patterns so they actually make sens. Sometimes they don't. But they're there.
It's called the Ramsey theory.

On my skin, there's about an hour, right after the saffron, of warm aldehydes reacting like a smoky shiso leaf dipped in sour Japanese plum burning over hinoki charcoal. It's awesome. Yet here's the thing : I hate sour Japanese plum. I hate hinoki wood. Yet I love that hour.

This is beautiful chaos.

The "Night Veils" collection by Byredo features dark fragrances with a high concentration of scent, inspired by the duality of night. After "Vanille Antique," there is finally a new fragrance from this collection. Rouge Chaotique is the first gourmand scent in the "Night Veils" collection, attempting to pair heavy "chaotic" notes with sweet fruity notes. The beauty of the fragrance thus emerges from chaos, so to speak :D

Now, finally, to the scent!

The perfume opens with a wonderful saffron note, which smells as clean and cool as in "Crystal Saffron." Juicy dark fruits immediately join the saffron, accompanied by a hint of fresh bergamot and a very subtle leather accord. The opening is very unique and I totally love it! In the heart of the fragrance, it becomes truly seductive! A sweet and delicious praline note, accompanied by delicate plum, creates an incredible spectacle. It's rare to encounter something so seductively delicious that still smells sophisticated and unique. In the dry-down, the initially barely noticeable oud note becomes a bit stronger, but definitely not to the point of being inappropriate. It’s a super interesting addition to the scent profile and mega intriguing! Finally, papyrus and patchouli notes come in, rounding off the fragrance into a rather earthy dry-down.

For me, this scent is truly something completely new that I haven't smelled in this composition anywhere else. Beautifully executed, and the quality and longevity, as usual from the Night Veils collection, leave nothing to be desired.

The fragrance is also very unisex and wearable by everyone! I would recommend wearing it more in the evenings or during the colder months, as it is quite heavy and strong. For me, it's definitely a scent that you MUST really try!

Thank you for your time, feel free to let me know how you perceive the fragrance and enjoy the experience!

See you soon,
Your Luis :)

"Rouge Chaotique" is not just a fragrance, but an emotion, like a interplay of chaos and passion. It is for those who seek the unusual and provocative while still appreciating elegance and sophistication. This scent leaves a lasting impression and is perfect for special occasions when a touch of mystery and seduction is required.

The opening is a fiery spectacle of saffron, blackcurrant, and an unexpected leather note, with bergamot and lemon bringing freshness to this bold blend. The allure comes from the juicy plum, paired with sweet praline. Oud and papyrus create a dry smokiness, giving it an "edgy" quality. Here, all elements of warmth, freshness, sweetness, and sensuality come together. Great projection, great longevity, and a truly beautiful gourmand oud fragrance.