My coverage of Boadicea the Victorious has now entered the final stretch with 5 fragrances in their Zodiacs collection. Today, we are continuing with Boadicea's latest, the 2025 release
Opal.
Upon first applying the fragrance, I get a sweet-spicy tobacco opening and it smells so familiar to the profile of Parfums de Marly's
Herod that I'm instantly disappointed. Thereafter, I get an interesting minty nuance and it throws me off. On-skin blending at first doesn't seem that impressive quality wise and the performance is pretty mild too. It becomes slightly more aromatic and dare I say green in the dry-down, adjacent to a fragrance like Masque Milano's
II-II Mandala.
But that experience doesn't at all sound familiar to what the other people are saying it should smell like. So what did I do? I reapplied. On the second stint, the scent opens sweet-spicy-resinous and slightly boozy. I can easily separate the saffron and the black pepper, with that same intense smell reminding me of Xerjoff's
Louis XV 1722. On-skin, I detect a classic combination of sandalwood, orris/iris and tonka (i.e. a profile in the ballpark of BDK's
Gris Charnel Extrait) but with prominent oriental spices layered on top, incl. nutmeg, saffron and cinnamon. However, I still feel like there is something in here that keeps reminding me of
Herod. A few hours later, I'd apply again and the scent would remind me of Herod yet again.
The things that I am smelling become a bit more evident when we compare it to the listed notes. At the bottom of the pyramid, you notice cashmeran, a very standard ingredient in perfumery that is typically used in tobacco fragrances. That is the thing constantly reminding me of
Herod. Once my nose becomes accustomed to the note, that's when I have an easier time spotting the rest of the structure. The top is led by the saffron and black pepper, led into the heart where you have a prominent spicy-resinous smell from a combination of woody tones, orris and nutmeg. It does feature powdery softness (iris & lavender) and some aromatic qualities (laurel & sage), but relative to that intense spicy-resinous-woody core DNA, these notes and accords are unable to compete. On occasion, I also get that cocoa butter which gives it a creamy feel on-skin and I get some smoky touches, likely from the listed woods note.
This summary makes
Opal hard to rate: originality clearly isn't there and while the structure features added nuances relative to a typical vanilla tobacco fragrance, those nuances aren't exactly the most pronounced. If your nose isn't accustomed to the cashmeran, you'll mostly smell a scent somewhere between
Louis XV 1722 and
Herod. If it is accustomed, you'll maybe get a DNA closer to
Gris Charnel Extrait or alternatively Amouage's
Lustre. You could buy all 3 of these fragrances for retail and have nearly €400 left over, considering Opal's retail price tag of €1,150/100ml. Across the 3 wears, I'd place longevity around 9-10 hours with sillage moderate-to-strong. All-in-all, the product's heavy reliance on those spicy-resinous qualities places yet another Boadicea in the basket of "missing something" as this type of fragrance should bring more to the table for the price being charged.