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Absolus Allegoria

Supreme Oud Birkholz 2021

7.0 / 10 123 Ratings

A perfume by Birkholz for women and men, released in 2021. The scent is spicy-woody. It is being marketed by LVMH.
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Main accords

Spicy

Woody

Oriental

Resinous

Green

Fragrance Notes

Cardamom

Angelica

Black pepper Coffee

Coffee

Sandalwood Oud

Oud

Patchouli

Pink pepper

Perfumer

Thierry Wasser

Ratings

Scent

7.0123 Ratings

Longevity

7.4100 Ratings

Sillage

6.9100 Ratings

Bottle

8.197 Ratings

Value for money

6.462 Ratings

Submitted by OPomone, last update on 10/06/2025.

Interesting Facts

The fragrance is part of the Absolus Allegoria collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Bohea Bohème

Golden Dallah

Iris Torréfié

Cuir Intense

Ambre Éternel

Black Opium Eau de Parfum Over Red

Reviews

7 in-depth fragrance descriptions

03/09/2023

9Scent 8Longevity 6Sillage

Dixieland88
14 Reviews

Dixieland88

Very helpful Review 6

Earthy green spicy class

This one seems to get negative reviews, and Im not sure why.

Initially, I thought the smell was good - not great. Classy Guerlain feeling, more spicy green woods than warm spicy.

After wearing several times, this is a moderate projector, but a long lasting classy woody masculine scent - sharp and confident. The oud is the woody "hollow tree" type of oud, and the spices are very smooth, greenish and unsweet.

Anyone looking for a gourmandish warm spicy fragrance should look elswehere.

With that said, this has become a love for work, office, church, etc. Easy to wear, as it isnt a room filling beast, and very very pleasant to smell in the air.

This is a very underrated fragrance.

8.9 rating

10/01/2024

9.5Scent 10Longevity 9Sillage

Cherlyn
29 Reviews

Cherlyn

Very helpful Review 6

Exquisite cardamom "coffee break"

Thierry Wasser prove, once again, his unbelievable tallent. This one is very beautiful, a pure cardamom absolute with coffee and angelica essence which make this fragrance to he like no other.
This collection is truly amazing considering the fact almost 90% of the ingredients are natural (absolutes and raw materials). Grab all of them while wou can because the future of perfumery will be far to be like this...

I love it.

05/10/2022

Aldmoni
4 Reviews

Aldmoni

Helpful Review 4

Decent Evening wear

Épices Exquises is a very spicy, woody scent. The spice is evident in the initial, and the dry down. The first spray I didn't care for much, but it quickly stripped away to reveal another layer. Now this layer is quite homely or warm, almost like how you'd expect to smell hurdled up by a fireplace in winter.

The layers to the peppers can be felt. Not so bad that you'd sneeze, but it does tingle at your nose a bit.

It is not a unique scent, which takes nothing away from it. I think it quickly reminds me of Boadicea the Victorious' Green Sapphire (without the firepower)
Dries down the same way too.

I think this is best as an evening scent, seemed to project more in the evening. However, in my day time weather of 34°c, I just get whiffs or it at random, despite spraying a generous amount on clothes and skin.

You can feel the perfume swirl around you for about 2hrs, and then it just drops to a personal thing/skin scent.

It's definitely not on the power level of other offerings in the Les absolus d'orient line, but I like how cozy it makes me feel.

03/12/2022

9Scent 7Longevity 7Sillage

Chanelle
752 Reviews

Translated · Show original

Chanelle

Top Review 34

Café gourmand

The Absolus d'Orient from Guerlain are all against me, as I am an old sweet tooth. Some more, some less, but so far none have made me truly happy for the long term. But what does long term mean these days when it comes to a fragrance? Fickle, unfaithful, capricious, short-lived are we all nowadays in our tastes and preferences, always on the hunt for the new thrill, the latest trend. Few, and generally older rather than younger, and again more men than women, remain very loyal to "their fragrance" for a long time. Although I now belong to the middle or even best age group, I am also a fickle tomato. Only a few things continually attract me, while others tend to repel me.
If a fragrance can be called gourmand in the broadest sense, it quickly makes it onto my watchlist. If it has a strong oud presence, it can stay where the agarwood grows. Pepper, which grows where pepper grows, is a nice, welcome kick, not just on strawberries.
So now we have Epices Exquises: my hope was to receive Cinnabar or similar spicy delights in a modern, Guerlain-like form. But that wish was not fulfilled. Another one, which was slumbering in my subconscious, came true. The search for Café gourmand without calories! You may know this: In Paris, good restaurants often offer a small cup of strong coffee with 2 to 4 teaspoon-sized desserts as a sweet sin after a hearty Alsatian platter. Not family-sized bowls of mousse au chocolat or giant bowls of tiramisu, but small works of art in miniature, often nutty-spicy, not very chocolatey, sometimes a bit fruity, and rarely too sweet. Often inspired by the nearby or even faraway East and its delicacies.
This is now all available in a - for the first time transparent - bottle in caramel/gold.
Coffee, cardamom, pepper, slightly sweet, soft, beautifully spicy, and (thank god) not too much agarwood.
But it could have more punch, especially now that the price has risen again.

07/14/2023

8.5Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

Mairuwa
65 Reviews

Translated · Show original

Mairuwa

Top Review 20

Bright shining cardamom on a gently warm wood base

Some of the fragrances from the "Les Absolus d'Orient" line don't fare well in reviews, as they are seen as deceptive: "Musc Noble" is said to be no musk, but primarily a rose scent, "Encens Mythique" has only a distant connection to incense, and "Santal Royal" is actually a peach-rose-oud fragrance, where one shouldn't expect sandalwood. And when such criticism even comes from Luca Turin, it encourages hobby perfumers to take the plunge and dare to critique.
I don't know the entire line, but what I do know I find exceptionally good. Of course, they are more for lovers of bold orientals and thus a matter of taste. But I find the element of surprise appealing: that the namesake does not necessarily come straight to the point but rather acts as a team player than a flamboyant soloist, each supported by a strong ensemble where the different voices have various roles and are highlighted at different points throughout a piece. I don't see that as a flaw.
Here now, with "Epices Exquises," there is little to criticize in terms of clarity: spices are clearly at the heart of this fragrance, particularly a bright, light cardamom. Immediately after spraying, the slightly greener, cooler note of angelica initially confuses me, but then, precisely because of this slight irritation, it has increasingly convinced me within the overall composition, as it forms a unique characteristic and remains memorable. It does not seek to please, but rather gives the fragrance a very distinct character. Associations like sauerkraut or celery, as some reviewers have perceived here, are not understandable to me; at most, there is a slightly piercing note at the start that quickly fades away.
I personally hardly perceive the coffee. Nevertheless, the legend of Thierry Wasser's inspiration from oriental cardamom coffee seems plausible to me, as I mainly perceive the spice note in the latter, probably because it dominates the perception as the unexpected, surprising element.
This cardamom note in "Epices Exquises" is perhaps the most beautiful I have ever encountered outside of Indian cuisine: bright golden shining and warmly embedded in spicy pepper and the woods of the base, which slowly assert themselves and continue to radiate their gentle warmth long after the cardamom has evaporated. The longevity is very good, as with the other representatives of the line; the bottle is beautiful and very fitting in its transparent golden-brown - it could perhaps be just a shade lighter.
I would confirm the unisex claim here at any time, as I find the fragrance even more appealing on the warm summer skin of my wife than on myself. Overall, it is convincing and surprisingly different for me.

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